Monday, December 1, 2008

11/24/08 Gibraltar, The Apes, Africa, the ride back and time spent after dinner

Los animales de Gibraltar son moy dificl para mi leer. Yo comprendo vente uno gato es malo. Yo no comprendo vente los Apes son molos.

Obviously, I didn't want to get out of bed this day because I was still exhausted. Gibraltar was at the top of my list of things to see, of course, but I was incredibly tired. It took 2-3 cups of coffee to wake me up and even then I needed to get moving to really get awake. After having strawberry yogurt with cereal for breakfast we went upstairs and finished getting ready. We then went out and got on the road to Gibraltar.



While on the road we saw: plenty of booths selling tickets to Africa, many condos (these took up 80% of the area around the highways), the mountains that were rocky and were dotted with green bushes and trees, and the wind. I suppose I should say that we felt the wind and saw it's effect. The trees were being pushed diagonal (wind was coming from the mountains), the sea was choppy and had white caps miles upon miles out, and Poppy got a workout driving the car and keeping the wind from blowing us across the road. I made sure to ask Ahmee and Poppy if they thought a cold front was coming in and if we were going to get a storm. Ahmee said that she hoped not and agreed with me when I said that back home when the wind blows like that it means it's bringing in a storm or a cold front. We all crossed our fingers and hoped that it wouldn't storm on us while we were at Gibraltar.



When we arrived at Gibraltar we got to go through customs, a first since we hit the mainland of Europe. Getting through customs was no problem though, all we had to do was show our passports. I don't know how many of you know this (I didn't know it), but Gibraltar is a British zone (colonies are outdated). When we went through customs we asked the police officer if we had to drive on the left side of the road. He said, "We might be a British provence, but we have not picked up all of Britain's bad habits." We found that quite funny.

As we drove into town we searched in vain for a restaurant. We didn't want Pizza Hut or Burger King, we wanted something else. When we got to the point where we were starting to go down one-way streets we pushed to get back to the main road and then from there we decided to go up on the "rock" of Gibraltar. We stopped once while on that tiny road and that was to get tickets to enter. Poppy was the one who got these and he also asked where to go to eat. The men there told him to go up the hill and we'd find food. They were right. We found food and right where the restaurant/cafe was there were the Gibraltar Apes.

Ahmee had warned me about these apes before, saying she'd seen them the last time she was there. Ahmee and Poppy had been with a group that had traveled along the base of the rock and from there they'd seen tiny "monkeys" every now and then on the hillside. I'd been surprised to hear about these "monkeys" the first time and by the time we'd reached the rock I'd completely forgotten about them. I was shocked when I saw an ape sitting on top of a red car (this was just as we were arriving at the restaurant).


I saw more apes lounging about on the roadside, mothers grooming their baby's, fathers walking around and bossing the teenagers around (it's true, he'd grunt and they'd cut it out), teenagers (these were the medium sized ones) getting on top of cars, and some apes eating out of peoples hands (there was a sign saying this was forbidden). As we parked the car up the hill I looked down at my flip-flops and wondered aloud, "Do you think my toes will be safe?"

I'd seen on National Geographic shows that chimpanzees were very strong. These apes weren't huge, they were about the size of a chimp, but I knew that they had to have a fair amount of strength. I also knew that the apes weren't afraid of humans (as we'd just seen), that the apes were looking for food, and that the medium-sized ones were not to be trusted. Some other obvious ones were: don't isolate momma, don't try to touch momma's baby, don't cross poppa, aaaand watch your pockets (if you have valuables). I was wary of the apes while some others weren't. Combine an intelligent animal with strength and the fact that I never knew what they were going to do (at least with cats I've had the time to recognize their moods and whether or not I can go near them). When we went up to the restaurant/cafe we sat by the window and watched the apes and the people while we ate our soup and pasta and listened to English music (wasn't unusual). I had the best seat and I used it to my advantage.

I looked down at the empty street and watched the trees. I was so excited when I saw an ape jump from the tree to the road. I was even more excited when I saw one of the caretakers or park directors walk up (exciting the ape-he came running) to give the ape a bit of food). Other great parts about the seat was: I got to see the bay, I got to see the boats, I got to see the sea, and I could still see throughout the restaurant. The best show was to come immediately after lunch.

As we walked around the giftshop I heard a commotion outside and went to stand in the doorway. There I saw a fleet of younger apes (teenagers) chasing each other up and over the fence, across the courtyard, up the walls, and across the roof tops. They eventually made a circle and passed back out through the gate there. I found it truly amusing when one of them tapped an older man who was standing just outside the gate. This ape had been jumping a lot and when he got close to this man he jumped up, almost hugged him, and then quickly lunged back. Imagine standing there, watching the apes chase each other only to have one jump right up in your face and then be gone faster than you could move. It's hilarious to watch, but I wouldn't want it to happen to me. I completely understand why that man jumped as high as he did.

The boss-ape, or pappa ape, followed this group slowly but still kept a good eye on them. He didn't stay to watch the stragglers who stayed behind. One ape had a good time on the poles, a few other apes had a good time pulling chips out of a young boys pocket (momma made him go eat in the restaurant after he informed her of that), and there were still a few playing on the roof. When we started to head down to go into St. Michael's cave I was nervous passing one in the skinny ally. I got within a foot of that ape, but let me tell you I was not there long. Shortly after squeezing past this ape another park "ranger" came up the steps around the corner. When he saw me he took the ape off his back. He'd made some friends there and he really seemed to like the apes. I however don't know how to read them, they're flighty, and so I try to keep a good distance. I'm not interested in petting any apes.



We walked down the steps to the cave (not passing any more apes). Within the cave I let go of a lot of tension as I looked around at the stalagtites and stalagmites that were as tall and as thick as the pillars in cathedrals, and I reflected on one of my favorite movies as a kid Milo and Otis. While in the cave I also read the signs. The cave had been used for ages by people. Excavations have turned up arrowheads and bones, while we also know that that cave was used by the military as a potential hospital (WWI and WWII days), and surprisingly enough as a place for concerts and other important events. Examples include: concerts, ballets, and weddings. Within the cave there was a stage and a place for people to sit. When someone wanted to get married in the cave they'd have men climb the stalagmites (something no one should ever do because the oil from your hands stunts the growth of the rock) and hold torches up for lighting. I found the stage setting funny because there was still water dripping down. There was a small puddle on stage right (those of you on stage) and people in the audience would've gotten drips down their backs, particularly those who sat in the right hand side of the stadium (again from the view of the stage). Another something I found interesting was that in some areas where the water was dripping on the seats I could see a faint rise, as if another stalagmite was growing there. It'd be great if it ever became a huge pillar like the others, but I highly doubt people will let that happen. Not only would it get rid of valuable seat-space it would also block other peoples views of the show. Even if it was allowed to grow it wouldn't make it very far. People refuse to listen to guides or read the signs and they wipe their oily hands all over these rocks, stunting the growth of them and making the rocks shiny. One touch of our fingers kills the chances of these stalagtites and stalagmites from growing (also ruins butterfly wings). One touch from us can kill. I've known this for about 2-3 years now.

Once out of the cave I had to go to the bathroom. I blame it on all the dripping water. At any rate I got to go back up to the restaurant, again avoiding getting too close to the apes, to walk in, use the WC, and then hurry back to meet up with Ahmee and Poppy. Ahmee and I stood on the steps in the alleyway a bit longer though when we saw a momma and her baby sitting on a step. I walked away pretty fast when I saw momma's eyes going back and forth between us and the other tourists who were gathering on her other side. I didn't want to corner her.

We went back to the car and got back on the road. We decided that we'd go to the ape center before we went down (Poppy and Ahmee wondering why I wanted to because we'd already seen apes). This route gave us spectacular views of the bay, of the city, of the mountains, AND of the coast of Africa in the distance. Along the way we saw several "couples" going through grooming cessions. Normally one was doing all the work while the other one was fast asleep in the sun.

When an ape sitting on the ledge with the backdrop of the bay and the city behind him Poppy stopped, grabbed the camera, and rolled down his window to lean out and take a picture of the him. Just as Poppy stuck his arms out the ape tucked his chin into his chest as if he were hiding. To get him to look up at us Ahmee did a series of whistling noises. The ape looked up immediately and Poppy snapped a picture just as two loud thuds met our ears. Two apes had jumped on the car at the sound of the whistle. Poppy quickly rolled up his window and got driving (slowly so he didn't hurt the apes), while I sat in the backseat and laughed. The apes had made all three of us jump (me in particular because they landed just above my head), but I found it hilarious. As we drove down the hill and through town (was no easy fete- we ended up needing directions) I thought about the apes and whether or not I could see myself having one as a pet. I definitely would not, but I knew that other people would.

When we got back to customs I was curious to find out just how stringent they'd be about people leaving Gibraltar and whether or not they'd do a thorough inspection to make sure no apes were being carted out and away. No such search transpired. All we had to do was show our passports. When I told Ahmee and Poppy about my thoughts of how someone could easily swipe an ape and get them through that customs they laughed. Getting a baby away from it's momma wouldn't be easy and neither would be getting a teenager or an adult (wouldn't want these anyway cuz then they wouldn't adapt and they'd fight you whereas the baby wouldn't be so bad because you'd raise him), but I knew that it definitely could happen (I once knew a teacher who'd nabbed himself seaturtle eggs, and I've known areas that have gotten crocodiles due to some person grabbing them as babies). While we drove I thought about how difficult it would be, about the equipment you'd need, about the facilities you'd need for the ape, and about the worst case scenario for the person who went to grab one. Picturing nasty bite gashes and an ape banging at the windows and jumping around in the car as the person drives up to customs is what I had in mind. I don't suggest anyone try that. It's illegal, it's difficult, and you could end up losing a nose a finger an ear and/or other body parts. I don't think it's worth it. Leave them in their natural habitat and let them hound the tourists. It's pretty fun to watch.

We stopped once on our way back and that was to take a picture of the rock of Gibraltar with the beach and the sea in it (I got to take the picture). While I was down there I also picked up several shells.

On the way back the wind was even worse and by the time we got back to the room I know Poppy was ready for a break. Once inside we did the usual: happy hour, blog, dinner, more blog, sleep. Again, I slept terribly.

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